Wednesday, 11 June 2014

Bucketing down in Edinburgh



Yes, we’ve had some drizzle in the last couple of weeks, and yes, we’ve been a little put off by it, but today, in Edinburgh, was the last straw!  We’d booked a walking tour of Edinburgh for today and it dawned bright and sunny.  However, the weather report indicated possible showers, so we took our macs when we left our apartment, thinking that this is a burden we don’t really need.  We had a good walk to our rendezvous, including coffee, croissants, a good walk around the old town as well as a light lunch and a glass of wine.  Just before the tour was about to kick off – NOTE: Sandersens Free Tours!!!!!  - it started to rain consistently and continued all afternoon.  At one stage, the rain was torrential!  However, our tour guide, Sabella, persevered until it became unbearable and we retired to a local pub, where she was obviously known, and continued to relate the history and colour of Edinburgh.  Edinburgh is built on seven hills, around the central citadel of Edinburgh Castle, and the buildings and structures are relative to the terrain, some buildings being a couple of levels on one side and 12 or 15 on the other, sometimes hiding alleys, cellars and voids (where other areas are hidden) underneath. 

It’s an eclectic city, with beautiful buildings, galleries, history and stories ( myths) in the old town, with another whole history (the last 200-300 years) mixed in with the new town.  We’re in absolute awe of the incredible story of how modern Scotland became what it is today!  From William Wallace, through Robert the Bruce, to the more modern, Robbie Burns, Walter Scott, James Watt and Alexander Graham Bell, Scotland has become a powerhouse of modern society.  Today’s Scotland is also a major contributor to modern Britain and should not be ignored – enough politics!

The city, as I said, was built on seven hills which were formed by volcanic action and tectonic plates colliding and it’s sometimes a bit of a struggle getting to sites we wanted to visit.  Today, Tuesday, saw us heading off in the morning with clear blue skies, towards Edinburgh Castle, the most imposing sight in the city.  From our apartment it’s a 15 minute walk to the city area then it takes another 10-15 minutes to climb the hill to the castle.  When we arrived, our calves were aching a little but we figured it was worth it, particularly when we found out that it was the Duke of Edinburgh’s 93rd birthday and there would be a 21-gun salute at midday from the parapet.  We managed to get a good vantage point well before the fireworks and once again, the rain came down just as they were setting up for the ceremony.  However, we stuck it out and captured some pretty good photos.

After our visit to the castle, we grabbed some lunch, then headed to the National History Museum and then visited the National Art Gallery, both of which were on our must-see list.  Tomorrow we head back to England and a couple of days in York, before our next wedding in Oxfordshire.  

Magnificent buildings
National Monument
St.Giles Kirk
Site of the hangman's gallows
Greyfriars Bobbie - legendary, perhaps mythical
Dolly the cloned sheep in the National Museum
Imposing outer wall of Edinburgh Castle
Scotch Guards marching past
Part of 21 gun salute to Duke of Edinburgh
Almost caught the muzzle flash

Reporting to the Commander

Winning a Guard's heart
Cannon on the outer wall
An amazing sight
War Memorial in the Castle

Sunday, 8 June 2014

Off to Islay



After leaving Glasgow, on our way to Islay, we passed by Loch Lomond and we stopped for coffee and a few pictures (who could resist).  The road follows the shore of the loch until leaving it at Tarbet and then heads along the shores of Loch Fyne, after passing through the ‘Rest and Be Thankful’ pass in the mountains.  Our overnight was at Tarbert (notice change of spelling) which is a small village on the coast where the ferry departs for Islay.  We stayed at Knap House – a really delightful B&B on the harbour – and had a lovely few hours in the town.  Dinner at the Starfish Restaurant was amongst the best seafood we’ve tasted so far.  The ferry departed at 9.45am and the trip was smooth and quite lovely – the sun was shining and the sea calm.  It’s a two hour trip and we arrived on time on Islay.

Immediately on arrival, we hit the trail for the distilleries, calling at Lagavulin, Laphroaig and Ardbeg and stopping for some lunch at Ardbeg.  By this time, of course, the Princess was driving!  We tasted at Lagavulin and did the distillery tour at Laphroaig, which was a terrific experience.  The full immersion, so to speak!  Then I tasted several of their wares and they were very generous with take-away samples for the driver.  I registered as a FOG – Friend of Laphroaig – and now have my own square-foot plot of peat bog, with coordinates to boot, so that I can find my spot next time I come back.

We dined in the Bowmore Hotel that night, after sobering up for an hour or two – the Bowmore was a little disappointing.  Our B&B is a couple of ks from Bowmore and we walked both ways, given our imbibing in the afternoon and our plans for a few drinks in the evening.  The weather today was beautiful and our walk home was lovely – this far north darkness doesn’t come until after 10.30pm.  We slept extremely well and breakfasted late, then headed off again for tastings at another couple of distilleries.  Imagine tasting whisky at 10 in the morning, but I persevered and had a win.  I tried 3 or 4 whiskies at Bruichladdich and decided that I’d like to live on the premises, buying a Port Charlotte, 12 year old, the smoothest peated single malt I’d ever tried.  Then, the laddie who was ‘educating’ me produced a sample of the Chief Distiller’s private cask (produced for last week’s Whisky Festival) and I can tell you – this is like Angel’s milk – the most amazing whisky I’ve ever tasted.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t buy a bottle – only available here and now!  Sweet, almost honey flavoured, fruity and so smooth – fantastic!

Unfortunately, today has been drizzling all day which has limited sight-seeing somewhat, but we have managed to get around the island and see a little of the incredible history this place offers.  It  looks a little desolate – very few trees, lots of hedges and stone fences and rolling hills – but it is exposed to the Atlantic and Northern Island is only a few miles off the coast.  But in its starkness, there is a beauty to the sheltered coves, lovely beaches and pretty cottages – mostly white-washed.  Tomorrow we head back to the mainland and Edinburgh.

Pretty little pier on Loch Lomond
Loch Lomond under leaden skies
Rest and Be Thankful
Lovely Tarbert harbour
Tarbert harbour
Ferryboat Finlaggan - historical name
Sunshine, Princess & calm seas
Coming into Port Ellen
Beautiful Port Ellen harbour
A wonderful day of tastings ahead
Amazing history at Laphroaig
The malting floor
The stills
Off to find my plot of peat
Gorgeous beaches

Thursday, 5 June 2014

Falkirk Wheel



It’s been drizzling for several days, in fact, on and off for much of the past week or so, so we decided to venture a little further away today rather than concentrate on Glasgow.  One of the sights we wanted to see was the Falkirk Wheel which has done the rounds on email and fascinated me.  Only 30 minutes drive away, towards Edinburgh and hopefully a little clearer than Glasgow.  We arrived in plenty of time to catch the first cruise and it didn’t disappoint.  This is Scottish engineering at its finest!  Two counter-balanced cradles rotating on a central axis carrying 500 tons of water each, ferry-boat and 100 or so passengers, lifted 35 metres into the air onto a canal system eliminating 11 lochs.  All this is operated by a small electric motor producing as much power as ONLY 8 electric kettles! 

This is the only one of its kind in the world and has completely regenerated the canal system in this area of Scotland, which had fallen into disrepair and neglect.  In fact, the canal system in Britain is becoming very popular as a holiday destination and hire boats are available all over the country.  But this lift system is now being studied by many other countries and I’m sure many more similar systems will appear around the world, replacing loch systems.  Although this installation was very expensive – some 75 million pounds to build and taking 4 years – there is no charge for canal boats to use it.  But the main attraction for me is the amazing engineering and the genius of the simplicity of the system.

Whilst in the Falkirk area, we also visited the Kelpies, mythical horses of Scottish folk-lore.  These have been represented by two enormous(30 metres high) stainless steel sculptures of horse-heads in a brand new park development near the M8 motorway.  This park is still under development and will be a lovely attraction when finished, but the Kelpies are quite spectacular and well worth a visit.

The amazing Falkirk Wheel
Entering the lower cradle
Arriving at the top
The turning basin at the head of the canal system
Moving back into the upper cradle
500 tons perched 35 metres in the air
The Kelpies
A little damp, but happy.

Glasgow in pictures

Buchanan St in central Glasgow - lovely pedestrian area
Commonwealth Games motif in George Square
Old entry gates to Glasgow Green
Spectacular Riverside Museum
The wall of cars in Riverside Museum
Queen Mary - built on the River Clyde in Glasgow
Amazing numbers of original cars on the wall
MG TC - original condition
Display of UK motor-cycles - this one is Vincent Rapide
Hundreds of ship models - all built on the Clyde
Beautiful white marble staircase in the Civic Centre
lovely George Square
Function Room in the Civic Centre
Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum
Spectacular complete set of armour - Earl of Pembroke
Salvador Dali's iconic painting - Christ of Saint John of the Cross
Rembrandt
Charles Rennie Macintosh's iconic furniture designs
Beautiful Queen Victoria fountain outside the People's Palace