Return to Amsterdam

We caught the train in Ghent, to Antwerp, then changed trains to catch the Thalys (very fast train) to Amsterdam and it was quite surprising how quickly the trip went by – including a light lunch and a glass of wine.  A very smooth trip!

We caught a cab at Amsterdam station as we weren’t quite sure just how far we might have to drag our suitcases through the city, but it was only a ten minute (through very crowded streets) trip to Wolvenstraat and met our B&B host, Jasper, at the door.  Again, we had to manhandle cases up very steep stairs – typical in Amsterdam – but we were surprised and pleased that we had a quite large room with a sitting area and plenty of light, at the back of the building so no street noise.  There are 3 or 4 restaurants in the street below so we would be spoiled for choice for food. 

Exploring the area, we realised that we’re not far from the last place we stayed at on our last trip here and it’s a really lovely area – between the 2^nd and 3^rd canal, in the “Nine Streets” district, not far from Jordaan.  We’re only a few hundred metres from the tram line which serves all the major sights and the shopping district. 

Over our few days here, we’ve explored the area around us, welcomed Kate from England (here for the weekend) explored the city on another Mike’s Bikes City Tour, spent some hours in the Rijksmuseum – home to works by Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Vermeer, and dozens of other well known Dutch artists.  The Rijksmuseum was closed for renovation last time we were here, but it was worth the wait to see it in its full glory.  It is a magnificent place with an amazing collection.  We have walked and walked and explored much more of Amsterdam than we were able to last trip.  The Mike’s Bikes experience is a little daunting but well worth the effort – it is a great way to see the city and join the bulk of Amsterdammers who ride bicycles in this city.  It seems that every person here owns at least one or two bikes and they cruise through the crowds without a care.  It takes a little while to become accustomed to joining in, but it’s well worth while.  Our guide, Pete, born Canadian (of Dutch parents) but now a Dutch ‘native’, was very knowledgeable and also patient with a few of our group who were not proficient on bicycles.  He sure needed to be patient!

Yesterday, prior to our bike tour, we walked deep into the Jordaan area to take in a real local farmers market and it was well worth the effort – an amazing array of fresh meat and fish, cheeses, vegetables and fruit and an even more amazing display of clothing, both new and 2^nd hand, bric-a-brac and “antique” goods. 

We have another day here to fill a few gaps – places that we’ve yet to visit and food that we’ve not yet tried, or beer that we’ve not yet tried, but I’m sure we’ll manage.  Then, it’s a fast train from Amsterdam to Hamburg!  

View of Westerkerk (Western Church)

Lovely canal view

Kate & Jules on our bicycle tour

Extensive public park - Vondelpark- surprisingly, one of many.

Hidden garden in the middle of the city

Herengracht canal

Second building from canal was our B&B last trip

Just released BMW iE (electric) being recharged

"The Night Watch" by Rembrandt - spectacular

Self portrait by Rembrandt

Amazing detail on this Delft violin in the museum

"Waterloo" - huge painting by Jan Willem Pieneman in the Rijksmuseum

by Van Gogh

Van Gogh self-portrait

Magnificent atrium in the Rijksmuseum

Amsterdam's all geared up for the Soccer World Cup

A Day in Bruges

It's an easy half hour train ride from Ghent to Bruges, a city which began life in about 862 AD as a castle built on marshland - the castle has long since disappeared, replaced by the city square - The Burg.  Surrounding the square are some impressive buildings - quite medieval through to more recent, but the most impressive is the Stadhuis, a classic late-medieval  town hall.  Bruges is not all that much bigger than Ghent, but it is so busy with tourists, it seems much too frantic and congested.  There are tour guides with signs trailed by 20 or 30 tour members, wherever we turned and the city seems smaller because of the crowds.  And the popularity with tourists is reflected in the prices in the restaurants and bars and the huge number of souvenir shops.

We spent much of the day hitting the listed highlights including the Groeningemuseum and the Sint-Jan-Hospitaalmuseum, mostly devoted to the work of Hans Memling (1435-94) the most memorable being the St. Ursula Shrine - amazing. Part of the Hospital Museum is devoted to a fifteenth century hospital and pharmacy - parts of which were in use until the early 20th century.   Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk is Bruges' most striking church, right in the centre of the town and is itself quite beautiful, but the church contains one of only a very few works by Michaelangelo existant outside Italy - Madonna and Child - and it is outstandingly beautiful.  This was another of the artworks stolen by the Nazis and hidden away in Austria.

Much of Bruges is very pretty and the canals are used extensively, mostly for tourist boat cruises, in fact vast queues of people were waiting to get on boats.  The crowds of people were a surprise, particularly on a Tuesday and the trains were packed as well.  It was well worth the trip, but I'll take Ghent as a base for seeing Belgium any time.  Whilst we didn't sample the lace in Belgium (one of the country's most significant exports) we certainly tried the chocolates and the frites along with many varieties of the Belgian beer. 

 The imposing gothic spire of the Onze-Lieve-Vrowekerk church close to the centre of the city.

The 15th century pharmacy in the Sint-Jan-Hospitaalmuseum - in use until early 1900s

 Some of the amazing pharmacy jars in original condition - highly prized collectors items

The incredibly beautiful Madonna and Child by Michaelangelo

 Bruges Belfry - built in the 12 century, originally as a lookout post and warning system, using bells, but now devoted to a carillon.

 The Burg - main square in Bruges - contains many architectural styles from medieval to more modern.

 The Stadhuis or town hall, in the Burg - a symbol of the self confidence of Bruges in medieval times.











Intricate detail on the facades of many of the fine buildings in the Burg

One of the beautiful sights in Bruges.

Brussels

Walking down the Gallerie des Bouchers- butchers (now given over to Restaurants)

The Princess and Nina in the Grand Place de Bruxelles

The Hotel de Ville - the Town Hall - was the first major building on the Grand Place.  Built in the 15th century, it still has its original spire and the main building has been reconstructed significantly over the last couple of hundred years. 

Some of the beautiful buildings in the Grand Place

The Manneken Pis - has become a symbol of Brussels for some strange reason. Here he's 'dressed' in Belgian colours for the World Cup.

The old and the new faces of Brussels.

Original 'fur shop' building - now something quite different, but a lovely building.

Nina and the Princess in the beautiful park -Place de Petit Sablon

Notre Dame de la Chappelle

Lunch at Le Quartier Gourmond in les Marolles - it was a wonderful meal, with great company!

Nina and the Princess - AGAIN!

The "Old England" building, now housing the Musee des Instruments de Musique - musical instruments museum.

Rue Royale

The Royal Palace

Parc du Royal

The Belgian Parliament

Notre Dame de Chappelle

Just a walk in the park for the Princess and the Pauper!

Ghent (Gent) in Pictures

Beautiful period buildings near the centre of Ghent -typical of most of the city and very picturesque.

The River Leie runs through the middle of Ghent but there is also a series of canals which make a very beautiful picture and provides another means of transport.  Most people walk or cycle through the centre of the city, although the trams are very efficient as well.

Another canal view - lovely buildings.  Our apartment is just near this canal, a couple of hundred metres away.

The Castle of the Lords, close to the centre of town - was abandoned in the 17th century then used as a prison and torture house - more recently renovated and has become a tourist attraction

Statue of Neptune above the building now housing the Information Centre - originally the site of the fish market

View of Neptune Square (old fish market) from the Castle walls.

Another view from the Castle walls

The last guilloutine - last used in 1852.

Graslei and Korenlei are the two streets bordering the river, the first trade port in Ghent dating to the 11th century.  The buildings on both sides are quite unique and beautiful.

We came across a ballerina during a photo shoot and couldn't resist my own photo - under St. Michael's Bridge

Spectacular St. Michael's Church.

The City Pavilion - one of Ghent's new architectural highlights - performance space, outdoor theatre and market area.

The view of St. Bavo's Cathedral from the Belfry, which was built in the 12th century and used as the town's warning system and is now the home to a wonderful carillon.  It is a World Heritage site.

Enjoying a quiet afternoon beer.

A canal cruise showed us some parts of the city which are hidden from the streets - a beautiful wrought iron bridge built by the ruler, who used it to visit his paramours.

The castle from the canal.