Wednesday, 23 October 2013

Off to Kanazawa

Beautiful old thatched cottages at Shirakawa-go
Shirakawa-go on the way to Kanazawa
Farmland in the foothills
Traditionally dressed couple in Kanazawa
Spectacular lacquered staircase in the geisha house
Tea Ceremony room in the Geisha House
The Geisha District in Kanazawa
Kanazawa Castle
Garden in Samurai House
Another spectacular garden in the Samurai District
The Samurai District of Kanazawa

Monday, 21 October 2013

Shinkansen to Takayama



Shinkansen to Takayama
Catching the shinkansen (Bullet Train) to Takayama was quite an experience made a little easier because it was Sunday morning and the railways were not quite as crowded as weekdays.  We’d booked our seats earlier in the week, but we still needed to catch the train from Hamamatsucho (near our hotel) to Shibuya, where the shinkansen station is, so we left ourselves plenty of time.  Once at Shibuya, we purchased amazing bento boxes for our lunch and waited for the train.  These trains are amazing – they stop at the station for only a couple of minutes and doors open EXACTLY where the footmarks are on the platform.  They leave exactly, to the second, at the scheduled time!
We were soon speeding through the outskirts of Tokyo on our way to Nagoya, where we changed trains to take us to Takayama in the mountains of central Honshu and the home of a heritage listed “old town” where original homes and shops, along with sake breweries and cafes, are surrounded by a modern city.  Takayama is the centre of this mountainous area and is home to the Takayama Festival, a twice a year celebration in spring and autumn, of bounteous crops and health and joy, where hundreds of thousands view a parade of traditional floats and costumes, dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. A museum just north of the old town is devoted to the display of the floats and costumes.  There is a daily market where people from surrounding farms bring their produce to sell – vegetables, flowers, apples and other goods.
Takayama is also the centre of the Hida beef industry – Hida is a particular type of beef cattle which are handfed, rubbed daily and their feed is laced with beer.  The meat is marbled and streaked with fine veins of fat which give it a fantastic taste and each cut of the meat is labelled as to where on the cattle it came from.  We ate hida in the Japanese restaurant in the hotel and it is sweet, juicy and extremely tasty.  It is akin to wagyu, except is much more succulent, sweeter and softer.  Fantastic!
The Onsen
We decided to try the onsen – Japanese public bath – prior to dinner and found it quite liberating.  There are two bath-houses in the hotel and men and women, of course, part ways at the door.  There is a ritual which involves scrubbing in the washroom prior to bathing, then immersing oneself in the public spa – most are natural mineral spring-fed and chemical-smelling, but these are not quite as strong.  Then a few minutes in the sauna and a trip outside to the cooler spa before showering and re-dressing in the hotel yukata, or gown, which everybody wears around the hotel.  It was certainly an experience and we’ll happily try the ‘dip’  again whenever we get the opportunity.

Beautiful Takayama

Our Shinkansen arrives - fast, efficient and comfortable
Bento box lunch purchased on the station
Our hotel room in Takayama - traditional ryokan-style
Licence required to drive the loo
Traditional yukata dress in the Hotel
Futons for sleeping - quite comfortable but not easy to rise
The Old town
Buildings in the old town - original from 1800s
Sake brewery
Lovely plants at the entry to a shop
Another delightful private garden
Streets of the old town
Off the beaten track in the old town - original dwellings
The torii gate leading to the shrine
Shrine garden
The river with fish ladder

Great pride in the front garden

Reflections on Tokyo




Here we are sitting on the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) travelling at incredible speed – perhaps around 300km per hour at times and pondering the last 6 days in Tokyo which was an incredible experience.  The city is an amazing mix of old and new – some parts are many hundreds of years old and others, space-age technology and amazing buildings.  The city is crowded, as already noted, the coastal Tokyo-Nagoya residential strip totalling some 35 million people, a quarter of the nation’s population.  The people are incredibly hard-working, many working very long hours and come Friday night, they stay in the izakaya (pubs) until very late.  The number of restaurants is amazing – in shopfronts, basements and up steep stairs to higher floors.    Most railway/subway stations have large numbers of take-away cafes and sit-down restaurants with almost every type of food we could imagine.  Much of it is very reasonably priced and certainly, from our experience, very tasty and fresh.
The people are mostly well-dressed and impeccably groomed, particularly the young women.  They are very fashionable and despite some very strange outfits, beautifully presented.  The shops and department stores are crowded, particularly at weekends, with sweet young things looking for the new and interesting outfits, shoes and hats they can find.  They totter around on impossibly high heels with micro-mini skirts or short shorts and above-knee decorative stockings.  We visited one of the high end department stores during the week and were amazed at the range of product, most appearing to be produced in Japan.  Some of the product, particularly kimonos and embroidered panels, etc., were extremely beautiful and incredibly expensive.  This is a store several levels above David Jones in sophistication and probably even above Galleries LaFayette in Paris.  There were several artisans at work and we managed to buy hand-made personally embossed chopsticks for a quite reasonable price – a nice keepsake.  
In some areas there is a concentration of same-type stores.  Fashion areas, kitchen goods and electronics in particular are grouped together.  “Electric Town” in Akihabara is an area not far from central Tokyo where there is building after building for many blocks, where electronic equipment and software of all types is sold.  There are buildings of 5 or 6 floors devoted to one particular type of game or brand and there seem to be dozens of these buildings.
We can’t say enough about the welcome we’ve received wherever we’ve been.  Greetings from staff in restaurants, shops, cafes and everywhere else has been a feature.  Looking a little lost on Saturday afternoon and pondering the map to find a particular store, we had a young mother ask if she could help and then she led us on a 3 block detour to point out the store we were looking for.  She spoke some English and had actually visited Australia at one time, but only the minimal Sydney/Gold Coast/Cairns few days experience.  She had finished her shopping and was heading home when she stopped to help, so we were most grateful.  We only wished that we’d had one of our little koalas with us to give to her little son.
The shinkansen, as with most of the trains we have experienced so far, are extremely efficient and clean and safe and many local trains are very crowded.  And yet, despite the crowds, there is no angst and certainly no delays.  The shinkansen are reputed to run less than 6 seconds late on average.  Amazingly efficient!   And not a hint of BO despite the crowds in the subways!  
Today, before boarding the shinkansen, we purchased our lunch which was a bento box with several types of vegetables, potato salad, prawns, pork and chicken prepared in different ways, a cold beer and all for a little over $10 each.  Absolutely beautiful!  (Pictures attached).      

Tokyo views


North to Nikko



Friday saw us head 150km north to the beautiful  traditional town of Nikko where Buddhist and Shinto shrines and temples exist side by side and have done so for some 1200 years.   The shrine area celebrates the Tokogawa shogunate – and is a particularly pretty town and a very popular tourist attraction.  The shrine, which consists of several buildings, is magnificent, ornately decorated and beautifully maintained and the autumn colours are just starting to show in the surrounding trees.  A long climb to the top of the mountain where the Shogun is buried certainly tested our fitness and we felt the effects on our calves and quads for quite some time afterwards.  A magnificent lunch in one of the local restaurants was another highlight.  The lunch consisted of a duck and noodle hot-pot, tempura vegetables and prawn, with pickled and fresh vegetables and mountain ferns with a bowl of rice and pots of green tea.
 On the return journey to Tokyo we visited the Meiji Emperor’s summer palace where the fantastic  gardens are just starting to show the autumn colours and we loved the walk around the gardens as well as our tour through the palace which is a huge timber house of many rooms – very simple and very beautiful.  There is little ornamentation and no furniture or pictures, the beauty lies in the simplicity and proportions of the rooms.  The inner court-yards which help to keep the house cool in the summer, are accessed by sliding screens and windows and create picture- like views of the gardens – a quite stunning experience.